Absolutely missed the significance of that apostrophe and pondered BREWED coffee. Ah, Avon as in the British place name! Fun clue. Would I just think I was looking at a man, though? Probably. I don’t know that I’ve ever seen any full-on drag kings. Got this off the H! Surprised there isn’t a question mark in the clue, actually. Has it been a long week for me or was this one harder than other recent Saturday NYTs? If you’re going to freeze the loaf, she says, do it before baking.NY Times crossword solution, 5 15 21, no.
#Hays rich eggy hanukkah how to#
“I use yarn to show people how to do it, so they get the gist.”īraiding is beautiful, but Nathan has a few other tricks for culinary success, including double-glazing - braid the dough, glaze it, let it rise half an hour and then glaze it again - with egg yolks, not whole eggs. “Once you get it, it is very automatic, but at first?” Nathan says. And both methods are considerably easier when someone shows you how. It’s the impressive six-braid that’s so intimidating. A triple-braided challah uses the same technique you’d use for your daughter’s plaits. It’s essentially two cylinders of dough, twisted into a spiral.īut intricate braiding adds undeniable panache. The timing is also helped by the fact that the anise-studded loaf doesn’t use a three- or six-braid weaving. “I think the sugar in the challah helps it to rise quickly,” says Nathan.
The rising time alone - a mere 10 minutes - was unbelievably speedy. She was delighted to discover she was wrong.
Hamier, who grew up in Fez, Morocco, had promised to divulge the secrets to her one-hour loaf, a Pain Petri or “kneaded bread.” Nathan, of course, did not believe that anything so divine could be kneaded and braided, rise and bake in that amount of time. So Nathan set out to find heaven in Hamier’s fifth-floor walk-up. One declared that such a loaf could only have come from heaven. Nathan and her fellow guests were instantly smitten. Nathan discovered the bread at the home of the Grand Rabbi of Bordeaux, France, where Rabbi Claude Maman served a one-hour, Moroccan spice-flavored challah made by his favorite synagogue caterer, Georgette Hamier. Nathan refutes that argument with just two words: speed challah. It’s the intricate braiding that seems to frighten people off - and the view that anything involving yeast-risen dough requires a significant time commitment. “I also think it’s as quick to make as going out to a bakery and getting a not-so-good rendition of it. “I love making it and eating it,” she says by phone. Knopf, 388 pp., $39.95) includes three recipes for the iconic bread and another dish that uses challah dough as its base. Happily, you don’t have to buy challah at a bakery, says Jewish food guru Joan Nathan, whose new book “Quiches, Kugels and Couscous: My Search for Jewish Cooking in France” (Alfred A. Now, he can hardly keep the loaves in stock. Dias da Silva first began baking at Oliveto next door, but it was during a stint at a Culinary Institute of America conference that he perfected his challah recipe. Neucimar “Nel” Dias da Silva, the Brazilian pastry chef and director of Market Hall Bakery in Oakland’s Rockridge neighborhood, flavors his challah with extra virgin olive oil and honey, with plump raisins for added appeal. Paula Shoyer, author of “The Kosher Baker” (University Press of New England, 312 pp., $35) and owner of Paula’s Parisian Pastries in Washington, D.C., likes to flavor one or more strands of her braided challah with garlic, the Middle Eastern spice mixture za’atar, or chocolate chips. Today there are as many variations as there are individuals. As Jewish families emigrated, the bread spread to Eastern Europe and Russia. The braided egg bread we have come to know as challah traces back to southern Germany in the Middle Ages, when the loaves were kneaded and braided at home, then carried to the town’s public ovens for baking. What goes into the dough itself varies, depending on a family’s heritage.
The two loaves represent the double portion of manna - literally, sweet food gifts - that fell from heaven when the Jews wandered in the desert so many centuries ago. Like so many things in Jewish celebrations, challah carries more than lovely flavor. Hanukkah is this week, and families everywhere will break bread with two loaves on Friday. The bread is universally beloved.Īnd lucky for us, this is the time of year when bakeries fairly brim with the stuff. Challah may be the quintessential Jewish bread, served at shabbat and holiday meals, but its rich dough knows no religious boundaries. They sit atop the bakery shelf, their yeasty aroma and glossy braided contours wooing passersby with the promise of sweet, eggy carbohydrate heaven.
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